I have taken some nice shots with the F90X, but I am not overly impressed with ISO200 film, at least when looking at it on a computer screen. When it comes to film cameras the quality of your images come down to the type of film you use, and your composition skills, more than anything else. The only real difference is that you only have a roll of film to work with, so take your time when shooting! If you use a 24 exposure roll of film and use continuous high motor drive, you'll go through a roll of film in about 17 seconds! With that in mind, I would not recommend using a film camera for action or nature photography! I generally use film for landscape photos only, which is where it really seems to shine. Exposure controls work the same as on any SLR camera, in terms of the different shooting modes, which means there is nothing new to learn from that perspective. NIKON F90X VS F3 ISOSince DX (not digital crop) coded film gives you the ISO setting, you just put the film in and forget it. There aren't hundreds of different settings to change, you can even use program mode and shoot with it as if it was a point and shoot camera, although I would not advise doing so. In terms of actual use, the F90X is rather simple. You do want to be careful when buying older film cameras because they can be reaching the end of their life, so make sure you buy from someone you know, or a dealer with some kind of warranty or 90 Day refund policy. I was able to buy my F90X for $50 US dollars, and it is in great shape. NIKON F90X VS F3 PROFESSIONALThe serious amateur, however, would be perfectly comfortable with the camera and enjoy getting professional results.The F90X/N90s is a film body, which would be a great camera for someone who wants to shoot film, but does not want to compromise in terms of build, auto focus speed, and easy of use, without spending over $100 for a camera like the F4, F5, F80 or F100. It would overwhelm a beginning photographer. It did the same when I backed up rapidly. I started slowly backing away from the wall as soon as the wall was in focus, the camera fired. I once tried this feature by standing near a wall, facing it, with the shutter release pushed. You can also set it to fire only when your subject moves into focus. Yes, the 90 can fire two frames a second or four, if you wish. If you put the AF into tracking mode and rapidly fire several frames, you cannot miss getting a razor-sharp frame. It actually takes into account the speed of the subject and anticipates where the subject will be when the shutter opens. Use the camera and leave the meter at home.Īutofocus will track subjects moving toward or away from you. If you like to spot-meter a scene and decide on the exposure itself, the 90 will spot-meter in any mode. Except in very difficult circumstances, the matrix metering is dead-on. When I get negatives back from the lab, I hold them up to see if they are evenly dense. All the dedicated flash guns for the 90, including the low-cost SB-23, will emit a beam of almost infrared light so the camera can focus in the dark or near dark. NIKON F90X VS F3 MANUALThe 90 synchronizes with flash all the way up to 1/250, which gives you a lot of choices in even Manual mode. You can also slow-sync the flash when you want to retain background details indoors and you can use rear-curtain flash to give natural-looking blurs when you drag the shutter. The results look natural, which is quite a trick. The 90 is especially effective a providing fill-flash in outdoor light. You can put an inexpensive SB-23 gun on it, put the camera in Program mode, and flash away in the confidence of getting superb results. I am most impressed by the 90's flash capacities. With Nikon's AF "D" lenses, you can exploit the 90 to its fullest. You don't lose matrix metering by doing this, and you don't lose all the functions of autofocus. If you have a backlog of Nikon MF lenses, you can use them on the 90 in Aperture-priority and Manual modes. The base steadies the camera and also gives you a vertical-release button. It cost over a thousand dollars in the 1990s now you can get a hardly used example for around fifty dollars! If you like a hefty camera, you can add a special base to the 90. You can add more features by adding a special back but that would complicate unnecessarily an easy to use machine. It has fast autofocus, matrix metering, rapid motor drive, and top-level flash capabilities. You can get more bells and whistles on an F100 or F5 or F6 but all you really need is on the 90. The Nikon N90S/F90X is as advanced as any film camera needs to be.
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